Tuesday, December 27, 2011

Poulan P4018WT Wild Thing 18-Inch 40cc 2-Cycle Gas Powered Easy Start Chain Saw

!±8± Poulan P4018WT Wild Thing 18-Inch 40cc 2-Cycle Gas Powered Easy Start Chain Saw

Brand : Poulan | Rate : | Price : $159.99
Post Date : Dec 27, 2011 18:42:15 | Usually ships in 24 hours

Features wild colors and a superb performance system that helps tame any cutting task. SuperClean engine performance system for increased power, longer air filter life and reduced fuel consumption. Includes carrying case and cutting chain. Not for sale in CA. U.S.A. Chain Saw Type: Gas, Bar Length (in.): 18, Cylinder Displacement (cc): 40, Chain Brake: Yes, Oil Pump Flow: Automatic, Primer Bulb: Yes

  • Perfect for light cutting and most jobs around the yard
  • Super Clean Air Filter System - extends the life of the air filter
  • Gear driven automatic oiler
  • Primer bulb for easy starting
  • Non-CARB Compliant/Not For Sale In California

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Monday, December 5, 2011

How To Sharpen A Saw

!±8± How To Sharpen A Saw

Like any other cutting tool, your saw will only work properly when it is sharp.
To lengthen the life of your saw, always keep it free of rust; when not in use, store it in a dry place covered in a coat of light machine oil (this is especially important if you use it infrequently).

Blunt saw teeth are easy to spot - they no longer drag the skin when you run your thumb along them and on close inspection they look smooth and rounded. Unless the saw is a very cheap one it will be well worth resharpening it.

You have two alternatives. The first is to have the saw
sharpened professionally: most tool shops and DIY stores either offer this service or sub-contract to a specialist saw doctor. The second is to do it yourself, in which case you need saw sets and saw files. Such tools aren't cheap, but if you use saws a great deal they're worth it.

Usually a good saw can be sharpened several times before the set is worn away.

Topping: Start off by clamping the blade in a vice, sandwiched between two wooden battens placed as close to the edge of the teeth as possible.

Run a fine flat file down the length of the blade a couple of times, holding it absolutely
straight and steady.

Shaping: Place a triangular file in the first gullet so that it follows the pitch of the teeth. Make two full length strokes across the saw, at 90° to the blade and parallel with the ground. Repeat the process for each gullet in turn until the teeth are all consistently shaped. Note that although professionals shape by eye, DIY saw sharpeners hold the file at the correct automatically.

Setting: This is the process of bending alternate teeth outwards so that the saw blade has a kerf and cuts cleanly. DIY saw setting pliers make the job considerably easier than the traditional method.

Setting pliers can be adjusted to any setting between four and twelve points per inch (ppi), which covers most saws except tenons. The ppi should be marked on the blade of your saw, saving you having to count.

Set the pliers to the correct ppi, place them over each alternate tooth, and squeeze. But make sure you follow the direction in which the teeth are already bent or they will almost certainly break off.

Afterwards, turn the saw blade round and set the intervening teeth in the same way.

Sharpening: Filing the teeth of a saw by hand with a plain file is a skilled job - it takes a lot of practice to maintain the proper cutting angles.

Fortunately, DIY saw sharpeners do most of this for you. But be sure to read the maker's instructions carefully - in particular, the angle setting on DIY sharpeners is different for different types of saw.

File only on the push stroke and be careful not to remove more metal than you have to. Finish off by lightly rubbing the sides of the teeth with machine oil to remove any burrs.


How To Sharpen A Saw

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Friday, December 2, 2011

Husqvarna 445 18-Inch 45.7cc 2-Stroke Gas Powered Chain Saw (CARB Compliant)

!±8± Husqvarna 445 18-Inch 45.7cc 2-Stroke Gas Powered Chain Saw (CARB Compliant)

Brand : Husqvarna | Rate : | Price : $276.43
Post Date : Dec 02, 2011 20:33:26 | Usually ships in 2-3 business days


New powerful all-round saw for people who value professional qualities in a saw. The X-Torq® engine means lower fuel consumption and reduced emission levels. Auto return stop switch and visible fuel level makes the saw easier to handle. Equipped with Smart Start® and fuel pump to ensure easy starts every time. Air Purge removes air from carburetor and fuel system for easy starting. Air Injection Centrifugal air cleaning system removes larger dust and debris particles before reaching the air filter. This results in reduced air filter cleanings and improved engine life. Air Injection Centrifugal air cleaning system removes larger dust and debris particles before reaching the air filter. This results in reduced air filter cleanings and improved engine life. X-Torq® delivers lower fuel consumption and reduced exhaust emission levels in accordance with the world´s most stringent environmental regulations. Easy to start combined start/stop switch and fuel pump make the saw very easy to start. Felling marks distinct marks for better felling precision. Non-CARB Compliant. Not available in California.

More Specification..!!

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Thursday, November 24, 2011

Chainsaw Sharpening Guide - Maintain Your Chainsaw for Peak Performance

!±8± Chainsaw Sharpening Guide - Maintain Your Chainsaw for Peak Performance

Your chainsaw is a useful tool around the garden, but only when it is kept in tip-top condition. As with any garden tool, regular maintenance of your saw, including chainsaw sharpening, is vital. Sharpening a chainsaw can be done at home using a simple, readily-available chainsaw sharpening kit costing just a few pounds.

Why chainsaw sharpening is important

Sharpening a chainsaw is essential for its efficient, safe operation. A blunt chainsaw is an inefficient tool - it won't cut effectively and it will take a lot more effort to get the cuts you want. Professionals pride themselves on maintaining their saw for peak performance and so should you - hence this chainsaw sharpening guide.

How can you tell if sharpening is needed?

Professionals recommend two simple checks for the condition and sharpness of your chainsaw chain. First of all, there's the self-feed test: blunt chains won't self-feed and will have to be actively 'pushed' into the wood. Secondly, look for telltale small wood chips that resemble sawdust. (rather than the chunky woodchips associated with a sharp chain). If either applies, it's time to sharpen the chainsaw chain.

How to sharpen a chainsaw

Chainsaw sharpening, while time-consuming and fiddly, can be done at home using a readily available kit. Many professionals also recommend the use of a suitable resin solvent to help maintain the life and performance of the chain. Typically, the kit for sharpening a chainsaw includes the following:

A chainsaw file gauge A round chainsaw file A flat file for the depth gauge on the chain's teeth.

Sharpening the chain involves cleaning the chain with a stiff brush, then systematically filing the top plate, side plate and depth gauge on each of the chain's teeth. Important safety precautions include the following:

Switching the saw off before work Sharpening the saw with the chainsaw engine cold. Wearing safety gloves - protects fingers when sharpening the chainsaw Working on a flat, sturdy, well-lit surface

Is sharpening a chainsaw really a DIY activity?

Chainsaw sharpening is well within the capability of a domestic user, providing you follow the instructions that come with the sharpening kit and apply commonsense safety procedures. If in doubt about your ability as a chainsaw sharpener, you should always seek professional advice and help. Remember too, that the chain isn't the only chainsaw component requiring regular maintenance - other components will also need routine attention.


Chainsaw Sharpening Guide - Maintain Your Chainsaw for Peak Performance

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Saturday, November 19, 2011

Basic Chainsaw Maintenance

!±8± Basic Chainsaw Maintenance

There are not too many outdoor tools more versatile than the chainsaw. From cutting firewood to solid trees;from a delicate to a heavy duty job or whether you use a Stihl, Husqvarna, Echo or Jonsered machine, the trusty chainsaw will perform the job admirably.

Don't be fooled by it's apparent power and effectiveness though. Truth be known, a chainsaw is like a finely tuned athlete;it needs proper but basic maintenance and in return, it will provide you with years of winning performance.

One of the most common areas inexperienced and semi professionals tend to overlook is the chain oiling system. Most chainsaws have either an automatic or manual oiling system and performing regular checks will save you plenty in the long run.

Testing the oiling system is simple and quite straightforward. To perform a check;make sure the oil reservoir is full, hold the saw about 3 inches above a piece of paper(preferably white) and revv the saw a few times. By depressing the oil lever while the saw is revving, you should notice a light oil mist spraying onto the paper. If not, then you may have problems.

There are several steps you can take to locate the source of the problem. For instance, dust may have built up in the oil outlets. Your manual should highlight exactly where those oil outlets are located. They'll require careful cleaning.

Likewise, removing the chain and checking the guide bar for cleanliness is also recommended. Without regular checking of the oil outlets dust and oil build up can "cake" leading to performance restriction.

After performing and correcting these problems and you are still experiencing difficulties, then it's time to consider having your chainsaw looked at by an expert.

As stated earlier, chainsaws require basic maintenance but if performed, you'll get years of regular use and service from them.


Basic Chainsaw Maintenance

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Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Knife Sharpening Experts - Forged Knives Vs Stamped Knives

!±8± Knife Sharpening Experts - Forged Knives Vs Stamped Knives

We all agree. If a knife isn't sharp, what's the use, right? The sharpness of the blade will make all the difference in the world. And sharpness is largely dependant upon the quality of the blade material from which the knife is made. You'll need to determine whether or not to get a forged knife or a stamped knife. Let's make it clear.

Stamped Knives. Stamped knives are stamped out of, or cut from, sheets of metal using a template of predetermined size and shape. This process is called precision machining. As most of these stamped knives are generally flat and thin, the process is done quite quickly. But because they are so thin, they aren't that dense and do not hold their edges very long. Unfortunately, this means more frequent sharpening is required by stamped knives than forged knives. As a matter of fact, some stamped knives sets claim that you needn't ever sharpen them. They'll stay sharp for a lifetime, the package will say. Please, don't believe that. All things change over time, including the sharpness of a knife's edge.

The blade of a stamped knife is usually fitted and fastened onto its handle and is not, therefore, thought of as a solid piece of metal. A loose handle could easily result in your having to throw the knife away. Such a waste. It's good to know that not all stamped handles are this way. Some stamped knives have handles that are fitted over the tang.

Stamped knives are also lighter, and have less balance, than forged knives. So you'll have to grip it fairly tightly and have to use much more pressure whenever you use them. Doing so will increase risk of injury.

Advantages: Fairly inexpensive. Lighter in weight.

Disadvantages: Usually unreliable handles. Requires more force, more ork from the user. Increased risk of injury during strenuous jobs. Poorly balanced. Needs frequent sharpening.

Forged Knives. Forged knives are not stamped. They are carefully made with great attention to detail. Steel is heated to extreme temperatures and set in a mold. It is than hammered out to form the blade. As a result, forged knives are denser and heavier than stamped knives and have better balance because of it. And while their tempering process results in a blade of extreme hardness, it is also more flexible. It usually has a nice thick bolster with a tang that is enclosed by the handle and is usually secured with three rivets.

Advantages: Much better balance. More weightier and so is more maneuverable. Metal is stronger and can last many years. Requires less sharpening. Less risk of injury as less work is required from the user. Solid bolster to increase safety. Secured, durable handles.

Disadvantage: Costs more. Weightier. Critical Point. Maybe 10 years ago all of the above would be undisputed. Not so today. There is quite a bit of dissent about the quality of stamped knives and whether or not they rival the quality of forged knives. Here are the popular points:

Some stamped knives are made with a high quality steel to begin with.

Some knives are stamped initially and then followed up with a forging process.

Today's manufacturing process (especially involving heat) can produce stamped knives that are just as good as forged knives, if not better.

Just as good as forged knives, if not better. That's quite amazing. Here's another critical point:

Many prefer a forged knife because of its weight distribution, the resultant ease of maneuverability and the comfort and safety of the bolster.

What's it to be then? It seems fairly easy to decide. If you'd like some strong, long-lasting knives, get forged knives. If you'd like something fairly disposable that you'd prefer not to have to maintain, get stamped knives.

But if you've got the time, the means and the desire, shop around. There are high quality stamped knives out there now. Some have good weight on them, too. They're relatively young on the market, so you're going to have to track them down.

July 2008


Knife Sharpening Experts - Forged Knives Vs Stamped Knives

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Tuesday, November 1, 2011

Chain Saw Cutting Problems

!±8± Chain Saw Cutting Problems

Chain saws are wonderful tools when they are cutting properly. Most people know that when a chain saw gets dull it does not cut very easily, and in fact can become quite dangerous. But, there are a number of other problems that can cause your chain saw to cut poorly. Most of these issues can be traced back to improper sharpening procedures or poor maintenance.

When you're cutting with your chain saw, if it cuts crooked or at an angle this is generally an indication that the teeth have been improperly filed. Either they were filed at the wrong angle, or every tooth was not filed the same amount and with the same pressure. If filing is not the cause of a chainsaw pulling to one side or the other, then it could be the bar or the sprocket at the far end of the bar are in poor condition and need maintenance or straightening.

If you have a newly sharpened chain saw and it dulls quickly, usually this is caused by thin cutting edges resulting from too much file pressure or low angle when sharpening your chain saw. Your chainsaw will need to be refiled using less pressure, as well as lowering the angle of attack and checking the height of the depth gauges.

If the chain grabs and cuts rough the saw sharpener probably induced a forward hook on the teeth as a result of too much pressure from the top of the file. A good indication that the depth gauges are set incorrectly is when the chain digs too far into the wood. You will need to lower the height of the depth gauges in most cases. If you detect overheating of the chain you may not have enough bar oil, or the saw sharpener created a backslope on the teeth during the last sharpening.

Drive link problems on the chain can result in severe problems like the chain jumping off the bar. Incorrect chain tension can cause this, and you may have to replace bent drive links on your chain. Also, excessive chain chatter can be caused by improper sprocket fit, and result in front or back peened drive links.

Whenever you identify these kinds of cutting problems with your chain saw you should immediately remove the bar and chain from the saw and inspect carefully. There are usually only a couple of nuts to remove the chain and separate the bar from the saw. This will allow you to inspect the parts for dangerous defects and keep your saw in good condition.


Chain Saw Cutting Problems

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Sunday, October 30, 2011

Oregon 109179 Saw Chain Hydraulically Assisted Bench Grinder/Sharpener

!±8± Oregon 109179 Saw Chain Hydraulically Assisted Bench Grinder/Sharpener

Brand : Oregon | Rate : | Price : $430.99
Post Date : Oct 30, 2011 12:53:49 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days


This Oregon Bench Chain Grinder is an important tool for people who need to keep their chain saws sharp. Chains from 1/4in. to 0.404in. pitch are easily sharpened thanks to a built-in hydraulic assist that closes the chain vise automatically each time the motor and wheel are lowered, eliminating manual locking and unlocking of the vise as each cutter is sharpened. Motor: 3/8 HP, 3 Amp, Rated RPM: 3,400, Volts: 110, Chain Pitch (in.): 1/4 - 0.404

More Specification..!!

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Monday, October 24, 2011

Chainsaw Sharpeners - Is It Worth Buying Online?

!±8± Chainsaw Sharpeners - Is It Worth Buying Online?

A chainsaw sharpener is a real asset. There are several different types to choose from depending on how much you use your saw and whether you want to sharpen the saw yourself or just touch it up a little between professional sharpening. I'll tell you about the sharpeners available and how you can get one for the best price online.

The last time I took my chainsaw to the shop to be sharpened I was cutting down a huge old diseased apple tree in my yard. My trusty poulon couldn't cope with the bigger branches or trunk. The saw wasn't faulty, it wouldn't cut because the chain was too blunt. Instead of cutting into the wood without much effort I had to push the saw into the wood. My saw was making chips that were like sawdust. I know chainsaws are dangerous when the chain gets dull so I head over to my local dealer.

At first It seems like a great idea to take your saw to your dealer for sharpening. They can get the blades and depth guides back in shape. But it does work out expensive, especially as most dealers will grind off around 2mm of metal when they sharpen a chain. More than is really needed and before you know it you need a new chain.

There are a few different kinds of chain saw sharpener available, there are small portable and bar mounted ones. Some that are little more than file guides. These are ok to keep your saw sharp enough to keep going or out in the field. For best results a bench mounted sharpener will speed up the process and you'll be able to sharpen like a pro without the expense.

Finding great deals
You may look online to avoid the hassle of going from one store to another only to find they don't stock what you're looking for or the prices are too high. And it's true that there are good discounts to be found from internet retailers, especially if they can provide free shipping. Finding the best deals is time consuming, but the work has been done for you.


Chainsaw Sharpeners - Is It Worth Buying Online?

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